Motorcycle Repair & Maintenance

by: Granny’s Mettle

Motorcycles are becoming more popular because of its convenience
and relatively inexpensive cost compared to automobiles. They are
capable of the same speeds as cars and can also be licensed for
use on public highways.

Owners and drivers of motorcycles opt for these motorized,
two-wheeled vehicles as transportation because aside from it
being an inexpensive alternative to cars, they can be easily
maneuvered and they deliver higher fuel economy. In addition,
they take less space for parking. No wonder a lot of Asian
countries have more motorcycles than cars.

And for drivers who love speed, motorcycles are great vehicles
because they can accelerate more quickly than an automobile.
Nevertheless, motorcycles are not for everybody. Riding and
controlling this vehicle requires skill and extra caution
especially during difficult maneuverings on wet or slick
surfaces.

But when you do get the urge to ride a motorcycle, you would want
to learn a lot of information on the vehicle, like “Where do I
start?”; “How do I start my motorcycle?”; “Do I need to shift
gears?” “If so, how do I do it?” And most of all, any beginner
would want to know first the makings and basic parts of a
motorcycle and how they work.

One author wrote that to give steps on how to start a motorcycle
on a hill involves a tremendous number of motorcycle parts. And
it doesn’t matter if its aftermarket motorcycle parts or OEM,
once a new rider begins to learn to ride it, he or she must also
be able to identify which part is which, or how to operate the
basic procedures for riding a motorcycle.

One of the most important and popular part of a motorcycle is the
muffler. Other than the tires, the body, the most well known part
I believe is the muffler. The motorcycle muffler includes all
pipes and baffles needed to reduce, if not quiet, the exhaust
noise. It is also used to match with the carburetor jetting. Most
often than not, factory mufflers are changed to aftermarket pipes
to tailor to the specifications of the user according to sound
and performance.

However, not all motorcycles have the same parts in the same
places. Each motorcycle, whether they have aftermarket motorcycle
parts or OEM, has its own names for its parts and even the way
that the parts are interconnected may be different. It’s up to
you, the rider, to identify these parts according to the model
and brand of the motorcycle you’re going to use.

Granny’s Mettle is a 30-something, professional web content
writer. She has created various web content on a diverse range of
topics, which includes digital printing topics, medical news, as
well as legal issues. Her articles are composed of reviews,
suggestions, tips and more for the printing and designing
industry.

Her thoughts on writing: “Writing gives me pleasure… pleasure and
excitement that you have created something to share with others.
And with the wide world of the Internet, it gives me great
satisfaction that my articles reach more people in the quickest
time you could imagine.”

On her spare time, she loves to stay at home, reading books on
just about any topic she fancies, cooking a great meal, and
taking care of her husband and kids.

For comments and inquiries about the article visit
http://www.motorcyclepartsbin.com

by: Granny’s Mettle

Part and parcel of owning a bike is maintaining its appearance
and its capability. Nevertheless, despite making sure that the
parts and cables of the motorcycle give us maximum service, we
cannot but accept that they have their own warranties and
lifetimes.

Unlike artwork or antiques, motorcycles are made to be used and
abused. With all the elements found in the environment,
motorcycle parts will definitely have its final day. When that
day comes and you don’t have enough money to buy new ones, why
not settle for used motorcycle parts, e.g. cables? With a few
tinkering and proper installation, they might just provide you
the service you need in many years to come.

Here are some suggestions for proper installation of used
motorcycle parts and cables:

Tip #1: Inspect and make sure you have the correct cable. This is
the very first step in getting the best used cable you need.
Inspect the used cable for any major wear and tear. Remember that
these are used cables so it will definitely have a few scratches;
but it must not be too great that using it for just a few days
will result in a total bust. After you have checked thoroughly,
make sure you have the correct part for the application, e.g.
correct cable ends, proper size casing ferrules, correct size,
shape and thread size of adjusters/elbows, etc.

Tip #2: Make sure all adjusters are in “closed” position.

Tip #3: Use a direct route for the cables. Route your used cables
from control to actuator in the most direct way possible. Keep
cables away from hot surfaces and avoid sharp bends, as well as
“kinks” in the housing or inner cable.

Tip #4: Adjust throttle/idle cables. These should be adjusted the
carb/s will return to full close when off. Adjust any excessive
freeplay and be sure throttle action is smooth and free from open
to full close before starting the engine. Also make sure that the
used cables do not bind together or hang up when there is full
lock-to-lock movement of bars.

Tip #5: Make sure clutch/brake cables are routed properly. This
is to avoid binding or hanging up the cables when there is full
lock-to-lock movement of bars. Also, cables that are routed
properly will not bind during compression of forks or suspension.
Install lever and actuator fittings, adjust freeplay to correct
specs and check for smooth-positive action. These are done before
starting the bike.

Tip #6: Route the speedometer/tachometer cables using a direct
path. Make sure that the cable will not hang up on the caliper
when forks compressed on the front wheel drive speedometer cable.
This is what usually happens with aftermarket calipers because
they often come in a larger size or different shape. Always make
sure that the inner cable is well-lubed with light grease when
installing and removing. Clean and re-grease regularly for
maintenance.

Tip #7: Avoid having contact with painted surfaces when
installing stainless steel braided cables. The braided surfaces
of these used cables are very abrasive. You can use shrink or
spiral wrap and/or cable guides when needed. And because
stainless braided cables are less flexible, always keep this in
mind when getting measurements for applications that are tailored
according to your specifications. Clean and lube like any
conventional cable assemblies.

And like any other used motorcycle parts, keep used cables clean
and properly lubricated when necessary. Always check on the
proper adjustments and inspect for any wear and tear on a regular
basis. Signs to look out for are torn or worn housing, frayed
wires, and signs of bending or kinking at the controls.

Granny’s Mettle is a 30-something, professional web content
writer. She has created various web content on a diverse range of
topics, which includes digital printing topics, medical news, as
well as legal issues. Her articles are composed of reviews,
suggestions, tips and more for the printing and designing
industry.

Her thoughts on writing: “Writing gives me pleasure… pleasure and
excitement that you have created something to share with others.
And with the wide world of the Internet, it gives me great
satisfaction that my articles reach more people in the quickest
time you could imagine.”

On her spare time, she loves to stay at home, reading books on
just about any topic she fancies, cooking a great meal, and
taking care of her husband and kids.

For comments and inquiries about the article visit
http://www.motorcyclepartsbin.com

By Mark J Thompson

Trouble Shooting Suspension Problems.

Adjustment locations: Forks

Rebound adjustment (if applicable) is located near the top of the
fork. Compression adjustment (if applicable) is located near the
bottom of the fork. Spring preload adjustment (if applicable) is
generally hex style and located at the top of the fork.

Lack of Rebound

Symptoms:

• Forks are plush, but increasing speed causes loss of control
and traction

• The motorcycle wallows and tends to run wide exiting the turn
causing fading traction and loss of control.

• When taking a corner a speed, you experience front-end chatter,
loss of traction and control.

• Aggressive input at speed lessons control and chassis attitude
suffers.

• Front end fails to recover after aggressive input over bumpy
surfaces.

Solution: Insufficient rebound. Increase rebound “gradually”
until control and traction are optimized and chatter is gone.

Too Much Rebound

Symptoms:

• Front end feels locked up resulting in harsh ride.

• Suspension tucks in and fails to return, giving a harsh ride.
Typically after the first bump, the bike will skip over
subsequent bumps and want to tuck the front.

• With acceleration, the front end will tank slap or shake
violently due to lack of front wheel tire contact.

Solution: Too much rebound. Decrease rebound “gradually” until
control and traction are optimized.

Lack of Compression

Symptoms:

• Front-end dives severely, sometimes bottoming out over heavy
bumps or during aggressive breaking.

• Front feels soft or vague similar to lack of rebound.

• When bottoming, a clunk is heard. This is due to reaching the
bottom of fork travel.

Solution: Insufficient compression. Increase “gradually” until
control and traction are optimized.

Too Much Compression

Symptom:

• Front end rides high through the corners, causing the bike to
steer wide. It should maintain the pre-determined sag, which will
allow the steering geometry to remain constant.

Solution: Decrease compression “gradually” until bike neither
bottoms nor rides high.

Symptom:

• Front end chatters or shakes entering turns. This is due to
incorrect oil height and/or too much low speed compression
damping.

Solution: First, verify that oil height is correct. If correct,
then decrease compression “gradually” until chattering and
shaking ceases.

Symptom:

• Bumps and ripples are felt directly in the triple clamps and
through the chassis. This causes the front wheel to bounce over
bumps.

Solution: Decrease compression “gradually” until control is
regained.

Symptom:

• Ride is generally hard, and gets even harder when braking or
entering turns.

Solution: Decrease compression “gradually” until control is
regained.

Adjustment Locations: Rear Shock

Rebound adjustment (if applicable) is located at the bottom of
the shock. Compression adjustment (if applicable) is located on
the reservoir. Spring prelude is located at the top of the shock.

Shock: Lack of Rebound

Symptoms:

• The ride will feel soft or vague and as speed increases, the
rear end will want to wallow and/or weave over bumpy surfaces and
traction suffers.

• Loss of traction will cause rear end to pogo or chatter due to
shock returning too fast on exiting a corner.

Solution: Insufficient rebound - Increase rebound until wallowing
and weaving disappears and control and traction are optimized.

Shock: Too Much Rebound

Symptoms:

• Ride is harsh, suspension control is limited and traction is
lost.

• Rear end will pack in, forcing the bike wide in corners, due to
rear squat. It will slow steering because front end is riding
high.

• When rear end packs in, tires generally will overheat and will
skip over bumps.

• When chopping throttle, rear end will tend to skip or hop on
entries.

Solution: Too much rebound. Decrease rebound “gradually” until
harsh ride is gone and traction is regained. Decrease rebound to
keep rear end from packing.

Shock: Lack of Compression

Symptoms:

• The bike will not turn in entering a turn.

• With bottoming, control and traction are lost.

• With excessive rear end squat, when accelerating out of
corners, the bike will tend to steer wide.

Solution: Insufficient compression. Increase compression
“gradually until traction and control is optimized and/or
excessive rear end squat is gone.

Shock: Too Much Compression

Symptoms:

• Ride is harsh, but not as bad as too much rebound. As speed
increases, so does harshness.

• There is very little rear end squat. This will cause loss of
traction/sliding. Tire will overheat.

• Rear end will want to kick when going over medium to large
bumps.

Solution: Decrease compression until harshness is gone. Decrease
compression until sliding stops and traction is regained.

Mark Thompson has spent the past 20 years racing motorcycles and
managing Race teams and riders. He now runs the Trackbikes
Website along with a number on Internet Ventures
http://www.trackbikes.co.uk/

by: Granny’s Mettle

The tachometer or the rev counter tells how much the speed of the
engine of the motorcycle revolutions per minute (RPM). Common
nowadays are electronic rev counters that can be installed by the
dealers you get them from. But for used motorcycle parts, rev
counters usually come in just any wrapping without instructions
or diagrams. In cases like these, you may install your rev
counter with the following instructions to help you.

The very first step is to move the headlight away. This is a
great help later on in avoiding some mistakes and will definitely
help you finish faster. If you feel a little hesitant in removing
your headlight, you might prefer to just let it dangle by the
wire. Just make sure that wire can handle your headlight’s
weight.

Then take the side pin out of the speedometer. Remove the two
allen screws from the back of the speedometer and keep all the
parts. I kept mine in a coffee mug and was able to account for
all of them when I was putting everything back. Slide the speedo
canister down the speedo cable with a good pair of pliers to
loosen the cable.

Notice the two wires on the back of the speedo. Remove the
speedo. To easily remove, lubricate the speedo then twist it out
of the rubber grommet that holds it in the mounting plate.

At the front of the mounting plate you will see three allens.
Remove the allens and hold the horizontal black plastic light pod
on. Then remove the two allens that hold the mounting plate on
the chassis.

At the back of the speedo, there are two screws that will allow
you to twist the fitting where the cable screws are on. Loosen
them just enough to allow you to twist the fitting as little as
possible and with some resistance.

Then there are two “light housings” that contain three indicator
lights each. Jot down the wire color combinations. This
information will become handy later on. After which, you have to
remove the indicator lights from the housing. Then take out all
the used motorcycle parts of the rev counter.

Run the indicator lights in the new black plastic T-shaped Light
Housing. Lubricate the little rubber receptacles and twist them a
little. This should form a T when you look at it from the front.

Then install next either the light cluster or the speedo. If you
decide to install the light cluster first, then it’s the rear
chrome cover second, then the black plastic T housing, then the
plastic indicator plate, then the foam rubber gasket, and finally
the front chrome cover.

Next, install the tachometer. Get the rubber grommet in the hole
on the right which you can easily see as you look at the front of
the face plate. Lube the housing, rotate and wiggle it into the
grommet. Then install the wires. The yellow wire, for light, goes
in the hole at the back that the bulb pushes into. Black wire,
for ground goes to the terminal marked (-), while the red/black
goes to the (+). The yellow/black goes to the terminal between
the ground and +12 volt terminals. Another black wire which has a
covered end is the ring connector. Put it on one of the studs at
the back of the rev counter. This is for the light in your
tachometer.

Just a few screws to tighten and knots to bolt and you’re done.
Easy isn’t it?

Granny’s Mettle is a 30-something, professional web content
writer. She has created various web content on a diverse range of
topics, which includes digital printing topics, medical news, as
well as legal issues. Her articles are composed of reviews,
suggestions, tips and more for the printing and designing
industry.

Her thoughts on writing: “Writing gives me pleasure… pleasure and
excitement that you have created something to share with others.
And with the wide world of the Internet, it gives me great
satisfaction that my articles reach more people in the quickest
time you could imagine.”

On her spare time, she loves to stay at home, reading books on
just about any topic she fancies, cooking a great meal, and
taking care of her husband and kids.

For comments and inquiries about the article visit
http://www.motorcyclepartsbin.com

By Matt Tong

Many mini moto modifications will require you to remove the
engine from the mini moto. This is why I have produced the
following guide.

Firstly you will need to remove the mini moto’s fairing.

Start with the seat fairing, unscrew the four seat screws and
remove the seat. Unscrew the screw at the front end of the seat
fairing and remove the petrol cap. The fairing can now be lifted
from the mini moto. Replace the fuel tank petrol cap and remove
the fuel tank by pulling the rubber tube of the nipple on the top
of the carburetor. You may want to double the rubber fuel tube
over and secure it in this position with a clothes peg. This is
to stop fuel leaking out.

Remove the bottom fairing by unscrewing the holding bolts (two on
each side), this frees the bottom fairing from the top. Unscrew
the two bolts on the underside of the bottom fairing. The bottom
fairing is now free. The top fairing is only now held on by one
last bolt located in between the handle bars at the front of the
mini moto.

Once you have removed the fairing, you will need to take the
chain off the front sprocket. To do this loosen the back wheel
nuts and the tensioning bolts. The back wheel can now be
maneuvered toward the front sprocket loosing the chain. When the
chain is loose enough you can remove it from the front sprocket.

Remove the pull start from the engine by unscrewing the three
holding screws. Once the pull start has been removed you will see
the wire that comes from the stop switch. Unplug this.

The throttle cable can be removed from its fitting on the top of
the carburetor. Pull the rubber seal up so that the locking nut
can be unscrewed, the throttle can now be pulled from the
carburetor along with the needle valve and spring.

The next step is to Remove the Exhaust. The exhaust is fixed to
the mini motos frame by a bolt located just under the seat
fairing toward the back of your mini moto. Undo this bolt with a
spanner and an alan key. The exhaust is fixed to the underside of
the engine by two bolts via a gasket. Remove the two bolts with
an alan key making sure that you do not lose the gasket washer.
The exhaust can now be slid out past the engine and removed form
the mini moto.

The engine is free from its mechanical fittings, the engine then
needs to be removed from the mini motos frame. The bolt at the
top of the engine must be undone first using the alan key. The
three screws located on the underside of the engine are the last
fixings to be undone. The engine can now be completely removed
from the mini moto.

Matt Tong has been importing and riding Mini Motos for two years.
For expert advice and Mini Moto information please visit
http://www.minimotosandmore.com

By Mark J Thompson

Suspension Set-up: The basics

Whether you are a road rider or a racer correct suspension setup
is the key to fast smooth riding and consistent lap times. To get
the best out of your bike it needs to be set up for the
conditions in which you will be riding. It is considerably easier
to set the bike up for the Track as you know what conditions will
be like for the next hour or so and thus you can dial in the
optimum settings for the that particular situation.

To what extent you change your suspension settings will depend on
whether your bike will also have to cope with riding on the road.
Unlike Roads Tracks are generally smooth and grippy. So if you
are only going to use the bike on the track you have the luxury
of fitting harder springs and modifying the fork and shock
internals. If you ride on the road as well as the track you will
probably want to keep a certain comfort level and concentrate on
just optimizing the current equipment

With incorrect suspension setup, tire wear is increased and
handling suffers, which in turn can result in rider fatigue. Lap
times can be dramatically slower and in extreme cases safety can
be compromised. Hopefully the following guide will help you dial
in your suspension for faster and safer riding both on and off
the track.

Firstly you will need to check the Fork and Shock sag: this is
the amount the forks and rear shock settle under load. To measure
it do the following: push down on the forks a number of times to
settle them, then mark the stanchion with a felt pen or put a
cable tie where the dust seal is sitting. Next ask some for help
to lift on the bars so the front wheel is just off the ground and
measure the amount the forks have traveled down. This is the
static sag (or unladen sag), This can be changed by adjusting the
spring preload (more preload = less sag). Repeat the same process
for the rear, this time measuring the distance from the wheel
spindle to a fixed point on the tail. Now you are ready to begin
setting up your suspension. The key is to do it a little at a
time and make notes as you go. For road riding start with the wet
track settings and work from there.

Basic Setup: Check the following

Forks sag 18-22 mm for dry track, 23-27mm for rain.

Shock sag 8-10mm for dry track, 10-14mm for rain.

Check chain alignment. If not correct, bike will crab walk and
sprocket wear will be increased.

Proper tire balance and pressure, starting with 30psi front and
32psi rear (both dry and wet).

Steering head bearings and torque specifications - if too loose,
there will be head shake at high speeds.

Front-end alignment. Check wheel alignment with triple clamps. If
out of alignment, fork geometry will be incorrect and steering
will suffer.

Crash damage, check for proper frame geometry.

Stock Suspension Tuning Limitations

Manufacturers plan on designing a bike that works moderately well
for a large section of riders and usages. To accomplish this as
economically as possible, they use valving with very small
venturis. These are then matched to a very basic shim stack which
creates a damping curve for the given suspension component. At
slower speeds this design can work moderately well, but at higher
speeds, when the suspension must react more quickly, the
suspension will not flow enough oil, and will experience
hydraulic lock. With hydraulic lock, the fork and/or shock cannot
dampen correctly and handling suffers. The solution is to
re-valve the active components to gain a proper damping curve. It
does not matter what components you have, (Ohlins, Fox, Kayaba,
Showa) matching them to your intended use and weight will vastly
improve their action. Furthermore, if you can achieve the damping
curve that is needed, it does not matter what brand name is on
the component. Often with stock components, when you turn the
adjusters full in or out, you do not notice a difference. In
part, this is due to the fact that the manufacturer has put the
damping curve in an area outside of your ideal range. Also,
because the valves have such small venturis, the adjuster change
makes very little difference. After re-valving, the adjusters
will be brought into play, and when you make an adjustment, you
will be able to notice that it affects the way the way the fork
or shock performs.

Another problem with stock suspension is the springs that are
used. Often they are progressive, increasing the spring rate with
increased compression distance. This means that the valving is
correct for only one part of the spring’s travel, all other is
compromise. If the factory does install a straight-rate spring,
it is rarely the correct rate for the weight of the rider with
gear. The solution is to install a straight-rate spring that
matches the valving for the combined weight of the bike, rider
and gear to the type of riding intended.

Remember!

• Always make small adjustments, more is not always better.

• Always keep notes of what you have done.

• Suspension tuning is an art - be patient

Mark Thompson has spent the last 20 Years Racing motorcycles and
managing Race Teams. He now runs the Trackbikes website.
http://www.trackbikes.co.uk/

By Jeff Sinason

All rubber tires wear down over time, whether they’re on a
motorcycle or automobile. However, you want to watch out for
uneven or excessive wear, both of which can cause serious
problems for motorcycle riders. If you pay attention to the
following causes of excessive and uneven wear, you will extend
the life of your tires and keep yourself safe:

1. Improper Tire Pressure - We have all heard about the
importance of maintaining proper tire pressure at all times.
Improper air pressure in your tire is a big reason for many tire
problems and failures. Be sure your tires have the recommended
pressure in them at all times.

2. Humped Roads — Most roads are “humped” slightly in the middle
or banked away from the center to allow rain and water to drain
off. However, this hump can have a dramatic effect on one side of
your motorcycle’s front tire because the side of the tire closer
to the center of the road will wear faster. There’s not much you
can do about this, and it can become very visible if you ride a
lot. So be aware of this phenomenon and check the left side of
your front tire often.

3. Disproportionate Cupping — Cupping is a normal phenomenon on
rubber tires that occurs when the brakes are applied. However,
excessive use of the front brake can produce disproportionate
cupping, when one side of the tire is more cupped than the other.
Using the front brake will naturally put more pressure and force
on the front tire to make it stop, thereby using up more rubber.

4. Wheel Alignment - While this problem is not as common on
motorcycles as it is on cars, it causes uneven tire wear. Any
number of things can cause wheel misalignment on motorcycles,
including getting into a fender bender, riding over potholes,
jumping over sidewalks and curbs, etc. It is a good idea to have
your wheel alignment checked out at least once a year to make
sure that a misalignment isn’t unevenly wearing your front tire.

5. Shock Absorbers — A bad shock absorber can wreak havoc on the
handling of your bike and promotes uneven front tire wear. So
make sure your shocks are in good shape.

6. Improper Loading — The final major problem to keep in mind is
improper loading of your bike, which causes your front tire to
wear unevenly. Proper weight distribution is essential to being
able to handle and steer your bike safely. Loading down one side
of your saddlebag with tools or equipment can keep you from
riding as vertically as possible, creating uneven tire wear.

So check your tires frequently, and keep these causes in mind if
you begin noticing excessive or uneven front tire wear. Having
the knowledge and taking the proper precautions will not only
make you a safer rider but will prolong the life of your bike’s
tires.

Jeff Sinason aka Tools - is the owner www.Bikerwares.com . Being an
avid biker, he spends most of his time working on his web site
and touring the country.